Mexican Roadmap
Originally a long-winded comment on a post on Raul's blog, I figured my review-in-a-nutshell recap of Mexican and Salvadoran restaurants in metro Vancouver was worth re-posting here. Consider it a survival guide for anyone for whom the phrase "Mexican food" means more than nachos at the hockey game.
Here's my native Texan twenty-word reviews of the various Mexican and other Latin restaurants around town which I've tried enough to feel justified commenting on:
Doña Cata – [dhv] The pinnacle of Vancouver tacquerias. Only wish their tostadas were worthy of their yummy salsas, and then it would be perfect. On any given evening you'll find more Spanish-speaking people here than everywhere else in Vancouver combined, and I think that speaks volumes.
Taco Loco – [dhv] Doña Cata's greasier cousin. Authentic tacos. Very rich, non-fruity take on Tacos Al Pastor. But non-taco dishes are inconsistent. Stick with what they do best.
La Casita – [dhv] Pretty good Mexican restaurant which, ironically, tries to do some Tex-Mex (e.g. Texas style enchiladas) but which succeeds much better at the straight up Mexican.
El Rinconcito – [dhv] Fairly decent Salvadoran food, but a little Canadianized. Seem to cater as much to the food-with-drinking crowd as the dining crowd.
El Caracol – [dhv] Authentic hole-in-the-wall Salvadoran food on Victoria Drive. Good papusas and cabbage slaw.
Las Margaritas – [dhv] Very good Can-Tex-Mex. It's not authentic. Even downright weird sometimes (e.g. salmon burrito?!?). But well-executed. I like it in spite of myself. Expect apathetic UBC-student service, though.
Andales – [dhv] Thoroughly "whitened" Mex and Tex-Mex (and allegedly Spanish, although I saw only one or two Spanish dishes on the menu). Smothered in cheese, Texas style, but lacking in flavour. It'll satisfy most Canadians, but is missing something for the people who grew up on this food.
Poncho's – [dhv] A little like Andales, but slightly more spice and slightly less cheese. Not bad for the non-discriminating Vancouverite.
El Furniture Warehouse – [dhv] As much about the beer as the food. Very greasy, cheesy Tex-Mex, but without much sparkle. Slightly prefer it over Andales and Poncho's for that kind of food, but only in a pinch.
Ole Ole – [dhv] Authentic, but sort of uninspired hole in the wall Mexican in New West. I want to love this guy's food, because he's so nice, but both the food and atmosphere are kind of like eating at home those nights mom is away and dad cooks.
Tequila Kitchen – [site] [dhv] tasty, yuppie sort of Mexican (cf. Taco Diner in Dallas), for the Yaletown hipster crowd. Food is quite good, but somehow feels more like a snack than a meal (their focus is botanas – Mexican tapas style dishes).
Other places I've not yet tried:
Tacos Mexico Rico
Tio Pepe's
The Mouse and the Bean
Casablanca
Salsa and Agave
Delicado's
Pepitas
Vallarta's
Lastly, some disclaimers about my reviews, so you can see just how neurotic I am, and take or leave my opinions accordingly:
When it comes to ethnic cuisine, spices are everything. Certain spice combinations give many ethnic dishes their identity and their soul. For Mexican food, that means cumin and chili powder for most dishes, and occasionally cilantro or cinnamon. And in my personal opinion, cumin is the key one, the unassuming earthy brown spice which sets Mexican food apart from its Latin cousins in Europe (Spanish, Italian, Portugese). Tacos or enchiladas or chile rellenos without cumin just taste like bad, weird Italian or Spanish food to me.
While cheese is primarily a Tex-Mex ingredient, and less an authentic Mexican one, the selection of cheese can mean the difference between a mediocre dish and an outstanding one. Acceptable cheeses are Monterey Jack and maybe a touch of Cheddar for Tex-Mex. Ideal cheeses are Queso Blanco and Asadero / Queso Quesadilla (for melting over enchiladas or in quesadillas), and Panela or Queso Fresco or Cotija for crumbling over certain dishes and beans, and the occasional personality cheese like Oaxaca or Requeson. Admittedly, Mexican cheeses are hard to find, but at least Monterey Jack is pretty common, so a Mexican restaurant should have no excuse for using Mozzarella or Feta cheese in a recipe except simple laziness.
Officially, Mexican cooking uses "crema" (also called "crema Mexicana"), not sour cream. This one doesn't really get me all that stirred up though. Yes, crema is smooth and runny and fresh and wonderful, but sour cream is an acceptable substitute as far as flavour goes, at least.
Here's my native Texan twenty-word reviews of the various Mexican and other Latin restaurants around town which I've tried enough to feel justified commenting on:
Other places I've not yet tried:
Lastly, some disclaimers about my reviews, so you can see just how neurotic I am, and take or leave my opinions accordingly: